High Pressure in the Siskiyou Wilderness

The winds were blowing across southern California and the skies were clear in the north. This unseasonal weather, cultivated by a high pressure system sitting over most of the West coast, motivated a 24 hour whirlwind into the Siskiyou Wilderness. My goal was to search for an unusual population of Alaska yellow-cedar documented and collected by Overton and Butler in 1979. I had discredited this report for several years because it did not fit within the parameters of my expectations for the species' regional ecological amplitude—reported at a mere 3115 feet. If true, this would be over 2000 feet lower than any other regional population. In the fall I made it to the HSU Herbarium to look at the specimen and, sure enough, it was properly identified by the duo. I had to find this unusual place. The high pressure was the excuse to escape the stress of the end of 2011, get into the mountains, and attempt to find another outlier in the Siskiyou Wilderness.
Port Orford-cedar alon the South Fork of the Smith River, California
The route began along the South Fork of the Smith River in a grove of massive Port Orford-cedars and Douglas-firs—pictured here with the largest Port Orford-cedar I have seen in California.

Douglas-fir along the Smith River
Impressive Douglas-firs abound along the South Fork of the Smith River

Siskiyou Crest from the Siskiyou Wilderness
After walking along the Smith River on the South Kelsey Trail, the Summit Valley Trail climbs to the high country. Here I got a view to the Siskiyou Crest, through a multitude of conifers, with the Smith River far below.

Del Norte mystery lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta)
Another mystery in the Smith River Country are the lodgepole pines inhabiting the mid-elevations. The cones are somewhere between the beach pine (ssp. contorta) and the Sierra lodgepole (ssp. murrayana) characterized by thicker scales and shorter, reflexed cones. There are several hypotheses as to why they grow as they do but most likely this serotinous nature is due to a frequent fire return interval.

Western white pine bark in the eastern Klamath Mountains.
Western white pine bark.

Howell's manzanita
Del Norte manzanita (Arctostaphylos delnortensis) is already starting to flower in mid-December.

Siskiyou Crest and South Fork Smith River
Somewhere below the Summit trail, about 3 miles from the Kelsey trail, a population of Alaska-cedar persists at 3100 feet. The survival here is due to the proximity to the Pacific Ocean which nurtures a cool and wet microsite. I did not find these trees this trip, but will be back to take a cross-country route and look again.

South Kelsey trail to the Sumit Valley Trail.
X marks the sport of where the reported Alaska-cedar reside.

Del Norte County sunset
I was treated to an amazing sunset on the return drive to Humboldt Bay.

 

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